I got to watch my grandmother make goulash. I helped even.
I’m hoping that when I get home I
can recreate it. There is something kind
of magical, mystical about sitting around the table at my grandmother’s house
eating goulash. She makes it every time
my mother visits. It is one of those
recipes that is not written down. It
never uses exact measurements. The
ingredients are more or less the same. But
it always has that distinctive grandma flavor.
My aunt Jeannie said her goulash never tastes the same. There are no guarantees mine will either.
What is it that makes something a signature dish? Something that never tastes quite right
unless a certain hand has made it? Is it
in the stirring or the chopping? Is it in the way the ingredients are
assembled?
I never thought in all my life that I would ever have a
signature dish. But somehow it
happened. I only know this is true because
my husband’s mother (a crazy amazing cook) referred to it as mine. It was after I brought a couple of String Pie’s
to Hospice. All of Tim’s family were
there, waiting and watching, as his grandmother quietly took her time
dying. Everyone was tired. Everyone was hungry. But no one wanted to leave because they
feared they would miss the moment of her passing. It’s hard keeping vigil with small children,
so I was at home. And I was going to cook anyway. I simply doubled the recipe. Off we went to Hospice; children, casseroles,
paper plates, and Kool-aid in tow.
I believe food heals, particularly when it is shared around
a table with conversation and laughter thrown in. It did that night. During a difficult time the family gathered
round. For a time the sweetness of kindred
souls filled the Hospice dining room as string pie filled hungry bellies, and creature
comfort filled grieving hearts. You
would have guessed we were at a happy family reunion, not watching and waiting
for death to visit. It touched me deeply when Nanny, Tim’s mom, told me how
good it was, how helpful.
As we leave my grandmother’s I will remember the
goulash. I will remember the crazy
stories shared around plates heaping with it and my Aunt Carol’s guacamole. I am hoping that my soul has been nourished
by the time I spent in my grandmother’s kitchen, getting dinner ready. I don’t know when I will get the chance to
return. So I am asking God for the grace
to remember: how she browned the ground
beef on low, sprinkling in generous amounts of garlic powder; how she simmered
crushed tomatoes, tomato sauce, and tomato juice; how she cooked the green
pepper and onion in the leftover grease from the hamburger; how each part
cooked separately, flavors developing while the elbow macaroni boiled; how
finally it all got stirred into the same pot to mingle and marry, making a fine
dish.
I wonder if my sons will someday return to my table with
their children, talking about the meals that only I can make, begging me for a
special encore of a dish they believe only I can do. As one who loves food, I tend to believe it
doesn’t really matter who makes it. But
there is something about cooking that develops over time, particular recipes
prepared regularly, making it to special request status. For me it is the story of love and
relationship, being told in the slurping silences and satisfied sighs of the
dinner table, aiding and abetting the stories of family swapped and savored
between bites. It is the pilgrimage of the
familiar returning again and again for a taste of home. More
than a recipe perfected, this is what I’m most hungry for.